While many restaurants in Hong Kong are popular for a brief time after opening, The Pawn continues to be extremely busy every night since it came onto the dining scene a few months ago.

I had heard good things about David Tamlyn's modern British cuisine. Most recently it had been recommended to me by one of Hong Kong's most talented chefs, so I thought now would be a good time to go for dinner.

Classic Start
My dining companion and I began with one of the restaurant's signature dishes Roast Bone Marrow, Horseradish Cream, Parsley Salad. This was the first time that either of us had that much marrow and we both throughly enjoyed it. The unctuous marrow was given an interesting lift by the horseradish cream. Digging into the large bone we felt like modern cavemen.



Ox Tongue with Kidney Beans, Black Olives, Caper, Coriander Mayonnaise was next. The capers and black pepper in the salad gave it a kick and complemented the tender tongue, which was also delicious on its own. This two-in-one dish was not as heavy as expected.

Both of these dishes are a must try and hats off to Tamlyn for bringing these classic, rarely used ingredients to Hong Kong diners.

Satisfying Seafood
The Thai-inspired Squid, Clams, Razors, Chilli, Garlic and Lemon Grass, Limes Leaves was another excellent dish. The seafood was cooked to perfection, tender with great bite, and after the flavour of the seafood has dissipated there was a wonderful lemongrass/lime/chilli aftertaste left on the tongue. This subtle sequencing of flavours a clever touch. The rustic presentation with the obvious whole lemongrass, lime leaves and chillies interspersed with the seafood was visually appealing.



Shrimp Cocktail with Spicy Carrot, Coriander Lime Salad, Peanuts was next. My dining companion and I gave The Pawn's take on the old-school prawn cocktail the affectionate name of the “lounging prawn”. Two large prawns lounging on an understated homemade cocktail sauce, served with a spicy carrot salad.

I have eaten my share of prawns, I have even caught and then immediately cooked them on the beach, but for their size these were the tenderest, sweetest prawns I have ever eaten. My dining companion thought they tasted more like crab with their sweet richness. I just had to ask Tamyln how he achieved this feat and he said that instead of dropping the prawns into boiling water they were slowly brought to the boil in cold water and then plunged in an ice-bath. The simple salad was an inspired accompaniment with the right amount of zing.



The Wow Factor
Whole Grilled Sea Bass, Wild Leaf and Herb Salad, Tomato Apple Chutney, and Roast Duck Breast, Garlic Puree, Apple and Rhubarb were the chosen mains.

The fish was stuffed with garlic, lemon and chilli and again had been cooked with a deft hand. Paired with the uber fresh, perfectly dressed salad (salad leaves, flat leaf parsley and dill) and chutney it was a delight to eat; in fact we ate every part of it, except for the bones.

The sensational duck had my palate in overdrive. It was served with a jus consisting of house-made stock, port, red wine, and pan scrappings that was finished with frozen blackberries. The fruit added richness and a subtle sweetness to the jus, which was divine. The accompaniments, especially the fresh cress, excellent counters to the rare duck. This was a “wow!” dish.



For dessert we choose the Apple and Rhubarb Crumble, English Custard, and Bread and Butter Pudding, Rum Raisins, Custard Sauce. The often stodgy English dessert of bread and butter pudding was given the modern treatment and instead was airy but just as homey. The crumble was equally enjoyable and had just the right balance of sweet and tart.    

Tamlyn, as well as diners, describe the food at The Pawn as simple and yes in many ways it is, but it is simplicity packed with flavour, brilliantly executed, and a result of a skilled and talented chef and his team.

Tamyln's Take
One of the things that sets The Pawn apart from others, and which keeps diners coming back, is the menu – it changes daily. Tamyln writes the menu each afternoon after his daily supplies have been delivered based on what he has at hand. Except for the quintessential favourites, the rest of the dishes will be different each night and while the same proteins will appear each day they will be prepared differently or paired differently.

The plating of the dishes is not fancy or pretentious...it is honest plating which is refreshing. And the servings are not skimpy.



The Pawn's cuisine is largely unique in Hong Kong and so there is little to compare it against, but even if there was I think it would still be a leading player.

Ambiance, Service, Wine
The owners of The Pawn are to be complimented on the refit of this classic building, paying homage to the previous tenants, while bringing a modern, upmarket pub feel. The decor of the dining room and the downstairs bar is eclectic and eye-catching, featuring lots of wood, texture and interesting art pieces. Both have a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere.

The large dining room space has been given a cosy treatment by breaking it up into smaller rooms. Diners can either eat inside or out on the balcony, each has a different vibe. I preferred the darker balcony area overlooking Johnston Road, for me the wooden tables and bright lighting inside was a bit too much like being in a classroom.



There is a good wine list and the recommendations paired well with the dishes. The service was efficient and the staff friendly.

by Vicki Williams
August 2008

The Pawn
62 Johnston Road,
Wanchai
2866-3444